Fashion Styles

How to Cut and Sew Ankara Ladies Pencil Trouser

I want to share with you guys how to cut and sew high waist Ankara female trousers, there is video tutorial inclusive in this post.

Making trousers is one of the simplest projects I love doing, especially where the flyer is not needed. In the picture above, we see that the opening for the zip on this trouser is at the back, this means that this type of trousers is easier to make.

Measurements Areas Needed 

The diagram above shows the areas to measure when sewing female trousers.

1) Waist

2) Hip

3) Thigh

4) Knee

5) Calf

6) Instep

How to measure crouch depth

The diagram above shows two ways one can measure crouch depth. One way is ideal the other is not.

Putting your tape rule under a lady to measure her crouch depth as shown in the diagram above might take your beloved tape measure to places it would rather not go. Especially during periods the conditions there is not right ?? so the second way of measuring the crotch depth is more practical.

Let your client sit down while you measure from her waist to the base of the chair, whatever measurements you get is her crouch depth. You can also take yours using the same process. See diagram below.

Theory of Blocks  

Remember the theory of blocks in pattern construction? We have the front block and the back, but unlike skirt that has front and back our trousers have further divisions, meaning front block is divided into two, the back block is also divided into two.

Calculation for Cutting Female Trousers

Step 1. Divide the measurements for waist and hip into 4.

Step 2. Divide the measurement for thighs, knees, Calf, and Instep into 2

Step 3. The hip is the largest of all the circumferences here so use your derived measurement for the hip after your division into 4 to get your base for the blocks


Let’s use this Ankara to illustrate.

The plain paper is the base for my blocks, I want to create the design on the right. You see my plain paper is marked; your base should be into 4 for all the block division.

This is where you place your crouch depth measurement. Whatever measurement you got while measuring your crouch depth would be pleased on one side of your fabric starting from the waist down. Then you measure in about 2.5 to 3.5 depending on your size or more. See where my pencil is in the picture above.

That’s where you take your 2.5 to 3.5 if need be. Then you curve it to from the crouch area. Sturdy the picture above well. Remember your base is in 4 folds.

The picture above shows how you place your measurements and link each figure together. Mark the waist measurement, add the hip and mark it. place your thigh measurement also and link all to the knee from both sides.

From the knee, you determine the shape of the ankle area if you want it big or small. For this Ankara design we will make it big.


I think it’s time I show you my present inspiration…….boli ati epa? I had to snack on this Nigerian delicacy roasted plantain and groundnuts washed down with a cold bottle of water……it’s amazing if you haven’t tried it?

Remember your base for the blocks is 4, now the four can be cut equally or cut in such a way that the two blocks for the front is smaller than the two blocks at the back by 2 inches but at the end, the trouser will fit the initial measurement you started with. It just means you calculate the front smaller while the back will be bigger ensuring your measurements is the same.

This particular Ankara trouser is cut the same…..meaning all four blocks are equal. when you cut yours don’t forget seam allowance for joining on all sides.

For the zip. The Ankara trouser has its zip at the back meaning it can be fixed the same way you fix a skirt zip. But if you want to fix the zip in front like regular trousers have flyers you cut it this way…..see diagram below

The Sewing

To sew, sew each leg separately on the side seam and inseam. Then sew both together at the crouch up to the point for zip

Ankara Top

Time to talk about the top for the Ankara trouser. The cut is so simple. place fabric on fold for front and back block measure out your length of top….wideness of bust waist and hip if need be. Get your arm hole area then cut out.

Here is the back block see diagram above. To do this cut the exact measurement you cut for the front. slash that into 2 and then shape it to get the design at the back. Add rope for holding the neck in place.

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